The Best Places to Visit in the Dordogne, France.
Travel Blog: Dordogne, France. All photos taken by Anna King
This blog features both off the beaten track and popular tourist spots to visit in the South of France. While we travelled on a tandem, the routes chosen are suitable for people driving a car as well.
There’s an old Irish saying, Giorraíonn beirt bóthar (two people shorten the road), and certainly this is the case with a tandem.
Often, the temptation is to rush around ‘sightseeing’ when you’re in a car, but life is very different on a bike. You can enjoy slow explorations around ancient villages, detours through undulating valleys and moments of inspired magic as you while away the hours with a crisp glass of Chardonnay under the shade of a sweet scented walnut tree.
So, leave your mobiles at home, get to (re)know your companion, and just let your senses come alive!
Our favourite places for a SLOW HOLIDAY in France:
Sarlat
It’s easy to fly into Bergerac or Bordeaux, followed by a quick spin on the train to your destination: Sarlat!
In the blink of an eye you will be pushing your bike through the adorable cobbled streets of this beautiful location, while lapping up the tingle of summer sun on your skin. With restaurants on every corner and the scent of aromatic oak-smoked delicacies, this is a place to really take a deep-breath and let the feelings of anticipation and promise take over.
We stayed at Hotel Restaurant La Couleuvrine. It’s set just far enough from the main square to feel as if you can ‘get way’ from the bustle, yet right in the heart of town. It’s incredibly romantic, with quirky classically styled rooms, excellent service and fabulous views across the square.
Travel Blog. Sarlat, Dordogne, France.
I’m always struck by the ease with which I fall into a sense of comfortable familiarity with Sarlat. It’s easy to do nothing; to really relax! You can hang out of the window and watch the world go by, or just sit and follow the secret pathway of doves as they dart in and out of a loft in an adjacent medieval building. With the delicate soft-feathered tones of an evening beginning to stir, it’s possible to let yourself ‘go’ and become immersed in this quintessentially southern experience.
With a window left ajar to invite the warm evening breeze, it's possible to enjoy a lapping hot bath while listening to faint sun-kissed chatter from afar. Eventually, cradled in cool old-fashioned turned, pearl white sheets the last breath of night will lull you into a dream filled nourishing sleep.
We always rise refreshed just in time to nip to the market (which is legendary) to gather sun-dried tomatoes and fresh olives for the day’s journey.
Another place that we highly recommend is Maison Labrousse, a medieval building lovingly restored into luxury apartments. The apartment was beautifully turned out, very cool in the heat of the day and the host was exceptionally helpful.
One of our regular cycles from Sarlat is to the ancient village of Domme (approximately 12km cycle ride), a stunning walled Bastide that is truly one of the prettiest villages in France.
Domme
Most scenic route: take the road out of Sarlat to Vitrac. After Vitrac, take a second left turn over the Dordogne River bridge onto the back road toward Cenac, the main village at the bottom of Domme.
Now, there’s one little snag with this cycle. Domme is up a really long hill.
There are two ways to ascend Domme. If you are a hardened cyclist take the 1st left. If not, further into the village of Cenac there is another turning to the left (after a small restaurant). While this requires a steep 20 mins walk, it’s much shorter.
Travel Blog: Domme, Dordogne, France
You will not be disappointed with this amazing village. Well worth the effort! It has everything that a French village can offer: medieval architecture, charming little cottages, perigordine roof-tops, delightful restaurants and ancient underground caves. You can spend hours exploring this little labyrinth of promise, and days gazing over the cliffs toward Roque Gageac and the Dordogne river. The perfect slow holiday. We stayed in the magnificent Hotel L'Esplanade. I love eating outdoors and terrace dining at the Hotel L’Esplanade is truly spectacular. Culinary surprises, combined with breathtaking views make for a sense-filled memorable experience. It’s here that I had my first experience of eating truffles. Simply divine!
One of the most treasured moments of visual magic that Domme offers is when the valley is covered in veils of mist. Looking down upon this surreal cloudscape is an awe-inspiring life-changing experience - a simple - yet profound blessing that I will never forget!
Lastly, if you are looking for a great Vietnamese restaurant you can’t beat Comptoir D'Annam. It’s a superb family run business with a refreshing, tasty menu. We ate here a couple of times. Great value and service. For lunch we loved: Restaurant Hibiscus: tapas, boissons fraiches, et bar à vin.
Hotel L'Esplanade.
Gorgeous streets, shops and bars.
Hotel L'Esplanade has spectacular views.
Where to next?
Upon leaving Domme take the road back to Cenac. Once you are over the river turn left to Le Roque-Gageac. Nestled beside the Dordogne, this beautiful riverside village with its golden yellow houses is the perfect place to take a boat trip. Once through the village, take the next left and head towards the insanely attractive village of Daglan, which boasts the amazing BIB GOURMAND Le Petit Paris, which is right in the heart of the village. This is southern French style cuisine at its best: relaxed, local produce, full of colour and flavour. Not to be missed!
An alternative route from Domme is not to turn left to Le Roque-Gageac, but to continue on to Vitrac and head to the Cingle de Montfort and on to the Village of Carsac. This is a beautiful run - quiet, with very little traffic.
100 metres past the village church is a bridge. Your can alight onto the old railway line cycle path that meanders along the Dordogne Valley and avoids traffic. It’s so handy and stops just about 3km from Souillac, where you can have an evening stop over and recount the day’s spectacular sojourn.
Cycling through glades of soft-patterned light, an orange toned stone Church sits in silent rest, patiently awaiting the presence of your gaze: Vitrac.
We stopped for lunch at a lovely restaurant: Moulin (BIB GOURMAND), which has a charming garden, impressive seasonal menu, desserts to die for, and an incredibly relaxing interior.
NEXT UP MEYRONNE
This is a quiet, extremely scenic journey (with some undulations). It follows the valley floor through walnut groves and light-filled fields, sunflowers, birds, butterflies and views of distant chalk bluffs.
Travel Blog Meyronne France.
We stayed in the lovely Chateaux La Terrasse, which has a wonderful elevated pool and stone interior restaurant. But, it’s possible to continue to Saint Sozy, where you can fuel up at the local market, or just sit in the lovely, typically rural French square.
When the heat of the sun has been tamed by time, continue this gorgeous journey to a pretty village called Creysse and stay in the Hotel Auberge. Located beside a stream, this family inn is the perfect hideaway. I absolutely loved our time here!
The next day’s journey from Creysse to Carennac ranks 10 out of 10 for an easy, picturesque light-filled cycle route. About 1 km from Creysse take the first right hand turn that goes slightly uphill. Descend all the way past a campsite. Turn right onto the main road and then shortly turn left. This takes you on a very quiet stunning valley road to Floirac.
Travel Blog: Saint Sozy, Dordogne, France.
Travel Blog: Creysse, Dordogne, France.
Travel Blog France
If you enjoy tree-lined roads dappled in light and shade, this cycle to Carennac is truly an idyllic valley experience. It is largely flat with some small inclines and incredibly peaceful. The last time we did this trip there was absolutely no traffic. What more could you ask for!
Now, for our favourite location. Carennac!
We have stayed here many times. This has to be one of the most serene places on earth.
Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, this magical oasis of calm makes you want to slow down and reconnect with what’s important in life. For years our favourite spot has been Gîte Le Fournil, just outside the village of Carennac. This little piece of heaven is situated up a rather long hill, but it is well worth the effort. If you’re on bikes, it’s a good idea to have a meal and glass of wine at Le Prieuré (bang in the centre of Carennac) and wait until there’s some shade on the hill before you attempt the journey up. The village has bucket loads of charm, a spectacular Romanesque church with cloisters. Le Prieuré is close to a Heritage Centre for Art and History of the Dordogne region, with a permanent exhibition that explains the heritage, art and architecture of this region. So, there’s plenty to do.
OUR Gîte
If you love long lazy mornings in bed sipping herbal tea while listening to crickets and greenfinch in song, afternoons watching lizards dart in and out of rockeries and evenings in anticipation of the Hoopoe visit, then is place is for you!
Travel Blog Carennac. Gîte Le Fournil,
The great thing about Le Fournil is that there are some fantastic cycle routes within a short distance, as long as you can put up with going up the hill at the end of the day. It's possible to also meander around off the beaten-track village hill tops and enjoy al fresco dining late into the night.
a fabulous trip to Saint-Céré.
A great route is Saint Céré: As you come into Carennac head toward signs to Saint-Céré. Once out of the village, take the second left (you will pass over a small bridge) then meander past a Church toward a cross-roads. Go directly over the cross-road and take the back road to Saint-Céré. With a sky occupied with buzzards, this is a pleasant cycle with next to no traffic, surrounded by meadows, sunflowers and rustic farming. An additional treat along this route are views of the grand Castlenau.
Saint-Céré, a market town in the Lot valley, Midi-Pyrenees, is a lovely little town to either stay for one night, or for a day’s cycling trip from Carennac. The town, shaped around two main squares (the Place du Mercadial and the Place de l'Eglise) has a warren of medieval narrow streets and ancient houses coming off of each square. One of the most attractive features for cyclists is a wonderful sandwich bar that opens even during siesta (opposite the old cinema as you enter the town). It has lovely coffee and very fresh produce. It’s a cool and refreshing little delight for cyclists in the heat of the day.
We stayed for one night at the exceptionally charming Hotel Le Victor Hugo, where the service is one of the best we have experienced in France. It boasts an exceptional gourmand restaurant with all my favourite options: wild flowers, seasonal herbs and locally sourced produce. There’s even a cute terrace with parasols. This place is well worth a visit!
Carennac to Loubressac
Hazy Sunshine View of Castelnau, Lot Valley, France
Another sunny cycling trip, particularly if you are staying at the Gite at the top of the hill, is to traverse the undulating slopes of the valley top, to the stunning village of Loubressac. This village boasts some of the best views of the Dordogne valley. It is well worth visiting Le Relais de Castelnau (situated at the entrance to the village), not just for their excellent food and wine, but to absorb panoramic views of the Château de Castelnau while dining on their terrasse.
Loubressac is an artists paradise: the unusual light coloured stone buildings with terracotta roof tops, set off with stunning burgundy shutters, is truly gorgeous. As if this picturesque scene is not enough, the village has access to lots of walks through stunning countryside. We spent hours lounging, walking, picnicking on fresh bread, salad, apricots and apples, followed by the most delightful crab salad evening meal.
A relaxed cycle back to Carennac – what isn’t to like…!
Next trip: Rocamadour via Miers.
Rocamadour is a difficult route for non-cyclists, so get up early, take it slow, with lots of stop-offs and I would stay over in Rocamadour if you are not up to a one day trip.
A mid-cycle ride rest point is a very pleasant old-fashioned village called Miers (Carennac to Miers is approximately 8km). You can fuel up on water or take a leisurely lunch (Le Petit Dragon Rouge) in this typically quaint French village. Lovely hearty stews and plenty of banter with the locals.
From Miers take the road to Alvingnac (5km). There is a steep incline into this village of odd and quirky buildings. It is the perfect stop off point and just before the village is one of my favourite pieces of unusual architecture.
We stayed at the Hotel Du Chateau, memorable due to it's seriously lovely grounds, with a pool, ivy covered stone walls and ancient stone steps into the garden.
The Village of Alvingnac.
From Alvingnac descend into into Rocamadour through undulating hills (10km).
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is on the path to Santiago de Campostela, and has been a place of pilgrimage for over 1000 years. Built on the site of a shrine to a Madonna, Rocamadour it is both famous for its healing powers, as well as being a magnificent hill toped village carved into the side of the cliff above the river Alzou. The religious buildings here include the Chapelle Notre Dame, which is home to the Black Madonna; the basilica Saint-Sauveur; the Saint-Michel chapel and the Palace of the Bishops (Palais des Eveques).
A snack along the way.
Finally, A Scenic Trip to Estaing.
Take a train from Rocamadour to De Cazaveille, an old mining village. From here it is possible to cycle an extremely scenic route along the river all the way to Estaing, via Entragues.
This picture postcard village, located at the foot of the Aubrac Mountains at the entrance to the Lot River, has an unusual church with both a bell tower and steeple, as well as an array of medieval and Renaissance style buildings and a pretty gorgeous 15th Century Chateau. Nestled at the foot of the 15th century castle on the Camino de Santiago, Hotel Aux Armes d’Estaing is the perfect location to end your holiday with their absolutely amazing gourmet menu.
Travel Blog: Estaing, France
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